TRACING THE 'FOOD STEPS' OF ANTHONY BOURDAIN IN VIETNAM (PART 1: HANOI)

Famed as being the Vietnamese national dish, this hot bowl of steaming noodles better known as Pho, has become an internationally recognizable Vietnamese export, as it can now be found in cities and restaurants across the globe. The Northern Vietnamese dish originates from the early 20th century, after which it was universalized by Vietnamese refugees following the Vietnam War. The dish features in Anthony Bourdain's series ‘No Reservations’ in episode six entitled “Food Porn”. The unambiguous origins of Pho remain in Hanoi, the capital city, where it is said the best Pho can be found. Typically a breakfast food and despite its simplistic appeal, a surprising amount of ingredients are used in making the dish; the broth entails a simmering beef bone stock combined with grilled ginger, cinnamon, black cardamom, star anise, and fish sauce, it is then stewed for as long as 6- 10 hours. Some say, using obscure ingredients such as the dried arm of a squid or dried sea worms bring out stronger flavors in the broth. Once the broth is done, the rice noodles are first placed into a bowl, followed by toppings which include beef and fresh herbs. The Pho is ready to eat once the hot broth is poured into your bowl, and placed in front of you.

During Anthony Bourdain’ opening episode- “Hanoi” in the series ‘Parts Unknown’, he interviews the former President Obama over what is arguably known as being the second most popular Hanoian dish; Bun Cha. In what is usually a busy marketplace, a fanfare of applause among a sea of red and yellow flags awaited the arrival of the POTUS. The former president Obama along with Mr. Bourdain stooped down onto some low-lying plastic stools and prepared themselves for a relaxing dinner among other local diners. Bourdain jokes “I’m guessing the president doesn’t get a lot of steak dinners, like this”. The surprisingly simple dish provides a collaborative array of mixed flavors such as sweet, savory and sour; it’s harmoniously composed of initially marinating ground pork along with pork shoulder, fused with sweet shallot, garlic, fish sauce, oyster sauce as well as black pepper, for roughly an hour. Once the flavors are intertwined, small pork patties, as well as finely sliced pork shoulder are charcoal-grilled, engulfing the surrounding streets with its aroma. Bun Cha is served alongside rice vermicelli, a basket containing a variety of fresh herbs, and sliced green papaya with carrot on top. The dish is usually found as being the “first love” of adventurers who decide to discover the greatness of Vietnamese cuisine in Hanoi, including Mr. Obama, who described it as being “killer, this is outstanding!”.

Anthony Bourdain samples Bun Oc in his season eight opener for ‘Parts Unknown’. During the episode, Bourdain proclaims the dish as being “something they do here and it’s better than anywhere else”, right as he tucks into his dish, he can’t help but release a loud moan over how delicious it tasted. Found across the capital city of Hanoi, Bun Oc derives from farmers having carefully selected the juiciest rice paddy crabs and snails, which are then beaten into a thick sticky paste. The paste is stirred into water, before being filtered through a basket. The remaining juice is finally cooked into a soup with sliced tomatoes until crab meat is seen bobbing around the brim. Once the soup is whole; infused with the essence of crab roe along with some rice vinegar, it is accompanied by rice noodles, fried tofu and some fibrous escargot. A small basket containing cilantro, lettuce, mint leaves, bean sprouts, perilla leaves and banana blossom is typically found on the same table where Bun Oc is served hot.

During the season eight opener of ‘Parts Unknown’, Mr Bourdain is welcomed back to town by an old friend from his previous excursions in the south of Vietnam. The group sit at a roadside plastic table, reminisce about past-times, and enjoy one of the finest products available in Hanoi. Scattered across the city are small and large eateries which feature a very imperative local treat; freshly made draught beer, or Bia Hoi! This beer which is brewed daily is only matured for a short period of time, before it is ready to be delivered in metallic kegs to every corner and crevice in the city. The beer can be considered as being fairly light, only containing around 3% alcohol. At half a dollar per glass straight from the keg, especially during the summer months, a fresh cold Bia Hoi is just what is needed in order to calm the senses down. Typically the later it gets the busier it gets, so grab a seat while they last! Enjoy a glass of cool draught beer in the sweltering heat of a Vietnamese summer.

A Northern Vietnamese specialty, the dish features in Bourdain’s episode entitled “Hanoi” from ‘Parts Unknown’ which aired in September 2016. As he eagerly slurps down a few Banh Cuon steamed rolls, Mr. Bourdain is seen conversing with a Vietnam War veteran and scholar, Mrs. Thao, who explains some of the changes that have occurred in modern contemporary Vietnamese society within the last 40 years. Preparing this dish begins from making the white translucent exterior from a mix of rice flour and tapioca starch, which is then spread on a flat surface to rest. A variety of takes on this dish exist such as the plain Banh Cuon (Banh Cuon Thanh Tri) or Banh Cuon Nhan Thit which is stuffed with ground pork and black wood ear mushroom. Other varieties exist such as Banh Cuon with shrimp (Banh Cuon Tom) or with chicken (Banh Cuon Ga). The dish is usually served with Vietnamese pork sausages and fish sauce, along with a drop of giant water bug essence. Typically found on street corners around the city during early mornings, this dish makes for a great traditional breakfast. 

* GRILLED PORK SAUSAGE (Nem Nướng)

Traditionally from the South of Vietnam, these grilled pork meatballs are also served in Hanoi, with a slightly different twist to them. Nem Nuong is made by grinding pork and pork fat together, flavored by chopped shallots, crushed garlic, sugar, fish sauce and black pepper. Once the mix is complete, sausages or small meatballs are formed by hand, before being baked or grilled. A sweet and spicy dipping sauce comes along with Nem Nuong. This dish is typically served as an appetizer, or as a side dish.

* A PORK NOODLE SOUP FEATURING TARO STEMS (Bún Dọc Mùng) 

Similarly to the classic Vietnamese dish - Pho, the broth for this hearty noodle soup: Bun Doc Mung is a process which can take multiple hours to prepare. It may look very simple, but this meal comes at great value. Once ordered, a generous serving of noodles will be placed in a bowl along with some shredded cilantro, crispy shallots, stems from Indian taro and a dribble of chili oil based sauce. This is only the foundation. Next, an assortment of different parts from a pig along with pork meatballs will be placed on top of all the ingredients, before a large scoop of hot broth, permeated with pork paste is gently poured into the bowl. A final touch up includes more crispy shallots and a scattering of black pepper. During Anthony Bourdain’s episode of ‘Parts Unknown’ when he visits a Bun Doc Mung restaurant, the group is seen being ushered away from the scene, after being insulted (jokingly, of course) by an unnerved restaurant owner. 

 

Source: https://www.exoticvoyages.com/blog/anthony-bourdain-top-dishes-in-hanoi-35033.html